These  Instructions Apply to the MIA EZ Gyro 1.0, 1.25 , 1.5, 1.75 and 2.0 

Same design with slight variations as indicated in the

Supplemental Photos and videos.

 

Durafly Auto G/G2 Tractor to Pusher Conversion Kits

 

Note: Originally we were planning on selling the MIA EZ 1.5 Gyro

as the Auto G/G2 conversion Kit, but it proved to be too large

for the Auto G/G2 Blades so we went with the 1.25 Instead.

 

Before You Start Please familiarize yourself with the Kit and Instructions Pay particular attention to the two Carbon Rod diameters used

for the Vertical Stabilizer Support (M2)  and Vertical Stabilizer to Rudder Hinge Pin (M1.5)

The kit assembles fast since it is 99 % bolt-on. Stain or Clear Coat the Oak wood frame or paint as desired before assembly. Let the parts dry completely before bolting on the frame brackets and supports.

The only parts that need permanent CA gluing are the Vertical stabilizer carbon rod supports, these must sit totally perpendicular with the base and in line with the main mast. Also the Motor Mount, as per instructions

The Electronics in the kit contains a JST Power connector, make sure to test the rotation of the motor CW as seen from the rear
before soldering the motor to esc wires. Check and double check polarity of Battery connectors before soldering or making connections.  
 

Materials and Tools Required

* Hot Melt or High quality CA Glue, CA Accelerator Spray
* A 00 size Philips Screwdriver
* Exacto™ Hobby knife
* Small Scissors
* Metal Edge Ruler
* Krylon™ Paint for Plastics (Optional to paint frame to desired color)

Note: Frame Mast and Base are made from high quality oak wood. If you favor a natural oak look, like in our main product photo, suggest you stain the wood lightly and coat with a couple light coats of clear coat. If you favor a Sporty look, coat with color of choice, use Krylon paints for wood/plastics, suggest you select a color that blends with Industrial Yellow, such as Black or White (like in our Instructions Photos) and can be easily seen up against a blue sky.

Required Equipment

PLEASE DO NOT DEVIATE FROM THIS EQUIPMENT ESPECIALLY THE REQUIRED USER SUPPLIED FLIGHT BATTERY SIZE AND CAPACITY. PLEASE ASK MIA, IF IN DOUBT

* Transmitter -- Programmable Delta Elevon Mix, DX6i DSM, Hobby King Orange TX Mode2 or similar
* Receiver -- Spektrum DSM, or Hobby King Orange RX DSM2 6CH
* Battery -- 500mAh 20 to 30C 2S 7.4V (Beginner) 3S 11.1 volts  ( Expert)
* Suitable Li-Pol Charger

Note: Please observe Li-Pol Battery and Charger Manufacturer suggested instructions for operation. You are solely responsible and assume all liability for operation of model.
 

2014 Bolt-On Frame Version

Please use the photos as general reference through the model assembly

If you have any questions please don't hesitate to E-Mail me

I'll be happy to assist you during the build, setup and flying. Mario

! Vertical and Horizontal Motor Offset Correction !

(See Motor Installation Steps)

Please Follow these Build Steps in the Sequence Indicated

Mast and Base should be at 90 Degrees

before tightening all bracket bolts and nuts

The Flex tubing, carbon rods and hardware for larger MIA EZ Gyros will be larger

but same assembly applies.

The Rotor Shaft on the larger MIA EZ Gyros is a Machined Long Bolt

but attaches In the same way t o the Control Head.

 

The Hub on the larger MIA EZ Gyros has been simplified

and it may come installed already with ball bearings. The Retainer for these is via a locknut (instead of a  wheel collar) with a machined step that goes towards the top ball bearing. Simply install rotor assembly over the screw shaft machined to fit the ball bearings  (No spacers required on the 1.25 gyros)  the shaft screw will have a natural stop that holds the rotor assembly from  bottoming down. DO Not over tighten the locknut.  

 

USE OF LOCTITE or GLUE  on UNIVERSAL JOINT PARTS

 

ONLY AND ONLY FOR UNIVERSAL JOINTS THAT USE METAL COMPONENTS,

AS ON SOME OF MIA MUCH LARGER EZ GYROS.

DO NOT USE WITH NYLON OR PLASTIC UNIVERSAL JOINT PARTS AS THESE BEING MADE FROM STRONG DELRIN-NYLON AND MACHINED FOR SELF THREADING SCREWS HAVE NATURAL RETAINING PROPERTIES AND DO NOT REQUIRE LOCTITE.

CONTROL LINKS

The Control Links simply install over the ends of the Control Head Carbon Rod

and are retained with press fit flex or spline rubber tubing. For a more secure and permanent installation place a small drop of CA Glue at the end of the carbon rod where it meets the end of the press fit ball link retainer tubing.

 

On he larger MIA EZ Gyro kits, the ball links need to be installed to the carbon rods

 supplied with them. Place a small drop of CA Glue inside the Ball link stem

and insert the carbon rod all the way. Let this dry completely before use.

The bottom of the assembled links go into a link stopper to the servo horns. Note there are two sizes of link stoppers and these are drilled to accept the correct, either Carbon or wire link. The carbon rod control links are larger diameter than the wire "Z-Bent" control links for the steering and rudder.

MOTOR INSTALLATION

The motor support part of the electronics bag, must be mounted center with the Rear Seat Upper bracket so that the 6x3 propeller clears the base by approx 1/8 inch. Do not install the motor any higher than this reference as these calculations are important for the efficient operation of the model.

For the larger MIA EZ Gyros see the

Supplemental Photos and Videos .No Glueing.

Once this is established you may want to secure the motor mount, the black painted wood part) more securely to the mast with a bit of CA around the area where it makes contact with the mast. The mounting screws supplied with the motor mount should go through the metal motor mounting socket, the wooden support plate and 1/2 way through the mast. Make sure this install is aligned and the 
motor thrust line is in line with the Vertical stabilizer also in line with the base.

Motor Vertical Offset

It is extremely important that the motor have a vertical
offset with the tail horizontal stabilizer of about 2-3 degrees UP.

The way to accomplish this is by shimming the motor mount, the lower portion, about 1/32" this will allow the model to take off straight and with the nose up. Otherwise the model will have a tendency to sink.

Make sure the Motor Offset is with the frame mast at 90 degrees with the base, any deviation here will throw off the vertical motor offset.  Model straight and level take-offs also depends on the Rotor Head Assembly angle of attack, this is normally at 98-100 degrees with the Control Head pointing upward and in reference to the mast.

Motor Horizontal Offset

There is no horizontal offset on the actual motor install, because the rudder does this to keep the model in balance by slightly pre-trimming its angle to counter-act the prop torque. This is done while the model is suspended from the center of the rotor shaft with a heavy string and the motor carefully throttled up.

Make Slight rudder adjustments with the rudder servo at trim position and using the rudder servo link-stopper to make the adjustment. These adjustments are made with motor and prop at 1/3  power until the model sits still (does not pivot or pivots at minimum while suspended as described). A bit of trial and error is required to get the model trimmed for horizontal offset balance. 

You could horizontally offset the motor as some DIY enthusiasts do it on their rc autogyros,  but the motor must be installed in line centered with the mast so that the mounting screws of the motor also grab on to the mast center for more support. Finally, CA Glue the motor plate only (not the aluminum  motor socket) to the mast for a more permanent installation.

This method also keeps lateral balance in check. Real Autogyros typically offset the Vertical stabilizer or the rudder. The Rudder is much easier to offset in an RC model since it is angle adjustable via the steering-rudder servo link and link stopper or link length adjust mechanism.     
 

INSTALLATION OF STABILIZERS

The Vertical Stabilizer front end is supported by a M2 Carbon rod which gets located on the rear of the mast at a preset drilled angled hole, while the rear of the Vertical Stabilizer and also Pivot Line for the Rudder locates on an M1.5 Carbon rod to allow the hinged plastic parts to pivot along with the rudder. This later rod also gets located at the bottom inside a rubber piece of spline tubing CA Glued at the rear of the frame base, like a flag pole support.

 

The top of the M1.5  hinged carbon rod gets also a piece of rubber spline tubing to lock the rudder from lifting up from the hinges.

Super easy once you study the photos and Installation Illustrations.  

RC EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

Keep in mind the installation of the RC equipment.
It is important to keep the receiver, esc and battery in the suggested locations for proper weight balance distribution.

The battery is installed all the way in front of the nose of the Cabin with rubber bands around the base and over the battery, Velcro or double side tape to the cabin inside walls and centered with the base.
 

STEERING AND RUDDER

 

In order to install the link stoppers, you need to "SLIGHTLY" enlarge the servo horns holes so that the stoppers mounting pegs fit a bit snug but are able to pivot.

 Front Steering Servo Horn Upper 2nd hole

Rudder Servo Horn Lower 3d Hole

 

The Z-bent wires are supplied extra long. Once installed, trim them with an abrasive cut-off wheel,  Dremel tool, or wire snipers, leaving 1/4" extra, sand or grind the trimmed ends of the wire smooth.

ROTOR BLADES INSTALLATION

With the MIA EZ Gyro conversion kits for the HK Durafly Auto G/G2 where you are reusing the Auto G blades, the same balancing check applies.

The blades are unique as they have MIA's own profile and way of manufacturing. They have been weighted and balanced but as with any rotating prop or blades,  check the balance again. This is done with the blades installed on the rotor head and spread out evenly at 120 degrees, on the rotor flex plate, via the single pivot mounting bolt installed snug but not overly tight.

 

 Give them a manual spin and check for vibrations. The rotor with blades should spin smooth when blades are properly positioned on the rotor head. If there are slight unbalances, make slight blade position adjustments, in many cases this is all that is required, but if this is not the case, adjust the balance.  If required, you can do this also by holding the model on the side and let the rotor sit vertically and find its own gravity center balance. Then see which blade is lighter, and add small pieces of masking tape to the lighter blade to match the rest equally.  Do this patiently until the whole rotor spins even and smooth.

 

The blades are one piece. During heavy testing they have proven highly durable and able to withstand a lot more abuse than typical wood-balsa rotor blades or even foam molded ones like on the Auto G.

 

The rotor head is the same as the MIA Upgrades head we make for the Auto G but relatively smaller and it does not use the shim screws on the rotor flex plate, instead the blades have their own shim part, on the blade. Please do not be tempted to put additional shims on the rotor flex plate, or blades, as this will bog down the operation of the model.

 

FLYING TIPS

 

With the model setup properly, the rotor blades typically spin up quickly by a moderate breeze or by hand and no pre-rotator is required, but note that before lift-off, they should be in full RPM (by the swoosh sound and by the model wanting to lift off from your hand, if you hand toss it).

This is critical in autogyros and you must remember to keep the rotor spinning at all times by managing throttle control. 

 

This takes a bit of practice if you are not familiar with RC autogyros. Please watch the MIA EZ GYRO Videos and study the way I fly them,  you can learn a lot by doing this if you do not have an RC autogyro pilot assistant next to you.  

 

Also,  it it is better to start with a 2-cell 500 mah Li-Pol battery until you get the hang of it, while gently tossing the model straight and level, once you get the rotor to spin up to full speed.  Then go to 3-cell 500 mah Li-Pol battery. A 3-Cell battery will give you a lot of power! so go easy on the throttle (typically 1/3 should get the model airborne with hand tosses).

 

Ground Take-offs take a bit of practice and patience is the key here. With the model pointed towards the breeze or mild wind, gradually throttle up to get the model moving and the blades picking up speed. Make sure you have all the Critical angles dialed in, this will get the model in the air straight and easier.

 

Adjust the nose steering if too sensitive by the rudder servo horn link hole, closer to the center of the horn or via the mechanical steering link adjuster (not by the transmitter setting). The rudder Sensitivity is also important, try not to use ruder control during take-offs and start with LOW RATES as described in the Transmitter Settings.

 

If you think your model is going to crash or is in trouble, simply lower the throttle and allow the model to parachute down. Typically, autogyros do not stall and will simply parachute on their own weight and rotor rpm.

 

 The MIA EZ Gyro Blades have built in self stabilizing momentum by nature of design and material density and will keep spinning after the throttle is removed, but keep in mind that rotating devices also come to a stop at some point even if they are mounted on ball bearings.

Larger version of the MIA EZ Gyro 1.0

Shown here for Flight Training Purposes